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| Middle-ground in Tallinn |
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| Įrašė Moacir P. de Sá Pereira | |
| 2007.05.11 00.14 | |
![]() Facebook group supporting Estonia What was this space? We were in what was once West Berlin, after all. Why was this part of the Tiergarten so done up? And, more importantly, why did the huge golden inscription under the soldier explain, in Russian that this area was for the “Eternal glory to the heroes, fallen in battle with the German fascist invaders for the freedom and independence of the Soviet Union” (Вечная слава героям павшим в боях с немецко-фашистскими захватчиками за свободу у независимость Советского Союза)? After all, only a few meters away was Marcks’s “Der Rufer,” who stares toward the Brandenburger Tor and shouts, as though at the Iron Curtain, “I go around the world and shout, ‘Peace! Peace! Peace!’” (Ich gehe durch die Welt und rufe Friede Friede Friede) Once we approached, we found a small, informative display. We had stumbled upon the Sowjetisches Ehrenmal, a cenotaph constructed (from stone, apparently, from the Reichskanzlei) in the deforested park in 1945 (with the destroyed Reichstag still in view) to commemorate precisely what is written under the soldier, specifically the 20k or so Soviet soldiers who perished in April and May of 1945 defeating the Nazis. That the cenotaph was in West Berlin seems to have been an fluke of history—borders drawn post facto—and, during the split in the city, apparently Soviet troops would still stand on patrol by their obsolete artillery, in the middle of the Tiergarten. I can understand the eagerness with which the Red Army wanted to construct a memorial to their fallen comrades in the middle of the capital of their now vanquished enemy. What surprised me was the astonishing condition in which the monument remained, despite being in West Berlin and despite being now totally under the control of the government of Berlin in the fancy, new Bundesrepublik. Every time I read yet another article about the current situation in Tallinn, I recall this Ehrenmal. It strikes me that neither side of the conflict is doing a particularly good job of being intellectually (or historically) honest, and that both the Estonian and Russian governments should take a page out of the “nie wieder” form of historical memory present throughout Berlin—from the Jüdisches Museum to the new roof of the Reichstag building that forever reminds the viewed of its torching to help Hitler’s rise to power on the backs of communists. I can’t, in good conscience, say I support either side of the conflict; I can only hope, which I aim to make clear on the flip, that a sensible middle ground can be found, if not in the actions of the governments, then at least in the minds of those agitating on one side or the other. In 1947, to commemorate three years since the Red Army marched into Tallinn, thereby ending German occupation of the city, the Soviet government constructed, in the center of the city, the Bronze Soldier of Tallinn, or, as he was known then, the Monument to the Liberators of Tallinn (Монумент освободителям Таллина). Some of the “liberators” of Tallinn were buried under the soldier and the stone background, and the area is known as the “Liberators’ Square.” Upon Estonian independence, the eternal flame burning in front of the monument was extinguished, and the site was rebranded to commemorate all of those who had fallen in World War II, not just the Soviet “Liberators” of Tallinn. ![]() Cynical chauvinism. lrytas.lt This is an important distinction, because in order to see it, one has to escape from pervasive Baltic victimology, where somehow Soviet occupation gives carte blanche to any sort of subsequent mistreatment of ethnic (Russian) minorities or to a politics of chauvinism more broadly. No amount of cultural extermination via the GULag at the hands of the Soviet Union makes singing “viens, du, trys, graži Lietuva (be rusų!)” appropriate, yet that is precisely the stance that is remanufactured in the MasterCard spoofs that Lietuvos rytas reprints. The victimology then also develops a manichean approach to the crisis in Estonia, in which the gestures of the Estonian government to date become comprimise enough. Discussion of multiple perspectives immediately becomes, solely, competing claims by opposed outlets of propaganda. Basically, you get a completely useless stalemate, in which the two sides use different terminology, engage in nauseous politics, and leave the rather crisp and clear answers off in some different plane entirely. What is the obvious answer? The government of Estonia fucked up by moving the Soldier. They knew that the cenotaph was a flashpoint, but they decided to monkey with it, precisely as the monument’s 60th anniversary was arriving. What should they have done? They should have followed the German example and let the monument stand, precisely as an implicit testament to what should be the overarching theme of any monument to World War II: “nie wieder.” This was, perhaps, why my trip to Berlin struck me so. The German capital is awash in direct engagements with an appalling history. Libeskind’s design for the Jüdisches Museum pulls absolutely no punches, and when I was there (and at all the other mentioned tourist destinations in Berlin), it struck me that nearly everyone was speaking German. I expected the museum to attract, say, Jews from the US, or well meaning types like myself. Instead, the demographic was wholly illegible yet still almost exclusively German-speaking. What's more, people wore stickers with the logo of the museum around all day, as a badge of familiarty with both the long and rich history of the German Jews as well as the horrors (brilliantly captured) of the Holocaust. ![]() Checkpoint Charlie. For the time we were in Berlin, we could not escape the memory of the Second World War. It almost feels like everywhere we turned, we were actively reminded of the terror of those times. And the Soviet cenotaph fits in of a piece. Why tear it down, when it stands, alone in the Tiergarten, as a silent reminder both of Nazi atrocities and then of the Soviet sequel? Leave the monument in the center of Berlin, as a constant testament to both periods of (East) German history? This, in my opinion, is the path the Estonian government should have taken. Let the Bronze Soldier stand, insulting as it may be, as a reminder of the historical excesses of both totalitarianism and (to assume Anderson is right) nationalism. Removing that soldier only reframes the memory of the war and the subsequent occupation, without any engagement other than to induce again more antagonism. The grotesque rightist politics swarming through Europe seem to indicate that the lessons of the Second World War have not yet been learned and that we need to be reminded, again: |
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| Paskutinį kartą atnaujinta ( 2007.05.11 21.15 ) |